Yes.

MDF stands for medium density fiberboard. It is a man-made wood product composed of randomized wood fibers with a higher density than particleboard (low-density) and lower density than hardboard (HDF), which is mostly only used for construction. MDF is notably better than particleboard, but the benefits of MDF over solid wood are lesser known. MDF is lighter, cheaper, and more consistent in size, strength, and design than solid wood. It is also less prone to splitting without grain lines and expansion/contraction of the material is unlikely.  Formaldehyde is a chemical substance often found in resins which are used to bind wood fibers together in MDF. Our MDF is California Phase 2 Compliant, which means that it meets strict requirements for low emissions of VOCs including formaldehyde.

Monday - Friday 9:00 - 5:00

Saturday 10:00 - 5:00

Sunday CLOSED

Private, afterhours appointments are possible, with plenty of notice, from Monday to Thursday.

Address:  1020 Lawrence Ave West, Ground Floor

(We're on the North side of Lawrence, between Caledonia and Dufferin, in the same space as Ciot tile)

Yes, we work with interior designers and architects. Please contact us so we can enter you into our system. and discuss how you work. Minimum order quantities may apply, but rarely.

The photographs of our products and finishes are representations of the actual designs. Due to variances in lighting, browser and display settings, photographs can only approximate what the products will look like in real life. The best way to experience our designs is to visit the Palazzetti store to view them in person and to see and feel finish options.

Palazzetti will accept C.O.M. (customer's own material) and C.O.L. (customer's own leather). There are however, certain guidelines that must be followed, the first being to send a sample to us for approval, before discussing yardage, shipping etc.

Once you have chosen the design you like (which might dictate certain leather options), you should then assess your lifestyle (including pets) in order to determine the wear and tear your choice will endure. Your sales associate will then be able to advise you as to the appropriate options available.

Nature places its signature on all leather hides. Full grain leathers especially exhibit climate variations, grazing habits and feeding differences. These variations of texture and dye colour can be evident on a single hide as well as on multiple hides. This is quite normal and very much a part of the beauty of natural leather.

What makes Palazzetti furniture so unique is that every upholstery piece is handcrafted. Because of this, dimensions of upholstered pieces are always approximate, and may vary by up to 5%.

Wrinkles or puddles are normal, and are most evident on square, flat cushions. Since the cushions of your furniture are soft and not all fabrics and leathers stretch the same way, there will varying degrees of wrinkling. Simply smooth and pat your seat cushions back into shape. If your cushions are movable, alternating their positions is an excellent avenue to take.

The floor sample has been displayed for quite some time and has been used by a good number of people. It is normal that your new furniture be firmer for the first couple of weeks. With time, your furniture will soften and offer you comfort for years to come.

Your furniture has been carefully packed in order to avoid all damage during transportation. However, they may have irregular creases or wrinkles which will gradually disappear with use. You may lightly pat with your hands your seat and back cushions into their initial shape.

LEATHER furniture:

Leather is a classic choice for upholstery, with a long life expectency.  It is important to remember that leather’s best attribute is that it is a natural material. Therefore, it is normal and acceptable for leather to have small scars, insect bites, wrinkles and striations that absolutely cannot be considered defects but instead guarantee that the product is in fact leather.

Most leathers are easily maintained without polishes, preservers or leather soaps, however, it is advisable to use a non-toxic leather conditioner only on finished leathers. If you have unprotected leathers, or you are unsure, please contact us first. For routine maintenance, simply dust or vacuum to keep furniture looking good. Protect your furniture from direct sunlight, as this may cause the leather to fade unevenly. Dab spills immediately with a soft cloth dampened in distilled water. Most surface marks will fade over time if you rub them with your fingers. Natural oils are released to help the marks disappear. All leather will wear over time, giving your piece its own unique character.
Cow Hide: Clean with a wet soft bristle brush and go in the direction of the fur.
NOTE: Certain clothing dyes, particularly those used in new denim, have a tendency to transfer onto fabrics, vinyls and leather. Palazzetti cannot predict how these dyes will behave, and as a result we cannot warranty against the resulting transfer.

FABRIC furniture:

Regular Care
Vacuum regularly with an upholstery attachment. Rotate and fluff removable cushions regularly to ensure even wear and increase longevity. Feather and down cushions have excellent recovery, but much like down comforters, pillows need to be fluffed frequently to restore their loft. Some feather loss is normal. Vacuuming with an upholstery attachment between the fabric casings and cushions will help prevent feathers from poking through the fabric. To minimize fading, avoid placing your upholstered furniture in direct sunlight. Dark fabrics and natural fibers like cotton are most susceptible to fading. An annual professional cleaning will keep your upholstered furniture looking its best.

Stains
Treat stains immediately for the best results. Blot up as much of the spill as possible with a clean, dry, white cloth. Don't rub. If a cleaner is needed we recommend using an all natural mild upholstery cleaner and spot testing in a discrete area. For large or stubborn stains, we recommend dry cleaning or consulting a furniture specialist for professional care. 
 

Faux-leather:

Although leather and faxu-leather can look the same, they are very different! Having said that, some of the principles of caring for leather can be applied to faux leather. A protective treatment is a great precaution but with a different effect: unlike with real leather, a protective treatment won’t penetrate and moisturise the faux leather, but rather will add a thin protective layer so that the surface is easier to clean. If marks are easier to clean to start with, there is less need for the harsher cleaners which will lead to drying – a big no no with faux leather.

Regardless of the colour, mild is the order of the day when cleaning faux leather! Harsh detergents will cause drying. It’s a good idea to give the surface a regular once over to keep on top of general little marks that just build up with use. We recommend warm water with some PH neutral soap and a non-abrasive cloth. Wring the cloth out so that it’s not dripping wet and wipe over. Follow up by drying off with a soft cloth such as a microfiber cloth. This stops general wear and tear and everyday marks from building up and making the surface look grubby.

Direct sunlight can dry out faux leathers. If your dining table is in a sunny spot maybe try and rotate the chairs once a month so that the same ones are not fully in the mid-day sun all the time.

Clothes that are indigo dyed (like jeans) or strong colours can transfer onto light colours. Be sure to give this a wipe as soon as you notice it, as it’s the kind of stain that will penetrate if left. A quick wipe down with a baby wipe after use should keep this at bay. It’s the kind of stain that only becomes obvious once it’s been there a while and by then it’s generally too late. The regular once over will also help this.

Never be tempted to rub / scrub the surface or use any kind of abrasive cloth or sponge.  Soft cloths and repeated circular motions are all you need. Scrubbing will crack the faux leather, not remove the mark.  

Whatever you use to clean a mark, whether it works or not, always give it a wipe afterward with water and/or a very mild detergent. The cleaners will do the job but they are not meant to be left on the surface for long periods of time.

Wood:

Clean with a dry lint-free cloth. If necessary, dampen slightly with water. We do not recommend oils or other wood products.

Painted, Lacquered and Embossed finishes:

For normal cleaning, use a slightly damp soft cloth. Do not use abrasive cleaners, solvents, ammonia, acetone and oil. In case of stains, remove them with a solution of mild soap and water, taking care to dry the wet surfaces.

Glass:

Shiny glass can be cleaned with glass cleaner. Satin / matte / acid glass should be cleaned with a lint free cloth moistened with methylated spirits. Never use products containing acetone, ammonia, chlorine, solvents or abrasive products.

Marble:

Marble is a porous stone and it must be noted that no stone sealer, no matter the quality, will protect your marble tabletop from all stains, etchings and scratches. However, if cared for properly, a marble top table will age well and be with you for a long time.

Due to marble’s porous nature, acids of varying strengths can harm and even permanently damage it.

• Don’t use cleaners that are not intended specifically for marble – their acidity will do more damage than good.
• Don’t allow acidic substances such as tomato juice, vinegar, wine etc to sit on the surface. Wiping these types of spills away as soon as possible won’t allow the acid to etch your tabletop’s surface. Even coffee is a weak acid, so don’t leave spills to sit. Wipe the table with water. Care should be used with milk products as the calcium can react with the stone as well. Serious etching and pitting caused by acids may require refinishing by a professional.
• Using placemats, coasters and felt on the bottom of accessories will protect the surface from watermarks, scratches and heat.
  
  

Regular Care:

For everyday cleaning, either purchase a daily use marble cleaner or clean the surface with only warm water on a soft cloth. Regular dusting will keep particulates from building up and possibly harming the surface over time.

Sealer Application:

Your table has been sealed at the factory with one coat of sealer, but regular application of a sealer is necessary. Purchase sealers from any tile retailer and apply to the surface of the table, following the product instructions. Three to five applications may be necessary depending on whether or not the table is in a high traffic area (e.g. kitchens). No sealer will protect from all stains – no matter how many applications are used, so wipe up spills promptly.

Sealer should be reapplied based on use. See manufacturer’s guidelines on the product packaging.

If you want to add a protective coating (i.e. Scotchguarding), speak with a professional, since, in some instances, applying such a coating can affect the appearance and/or "nap" of the fabric. Applying such a coating will void the fabric warranty. Should you decide to have a protective coating applied, there are third party companies that offer this service who then offer their own warranty on the fabric. It is important to tell them the composition of the fabric, and is a good idea to test the product in a non-visible spot.